How to Remove Toyota 4Runner 5th Gen Valence With Bumper

Did you ever want to remove the Toyota 4Runner 5th Gen valence that comes on TRD Off Road or Trail editions? This how to video shows you how to do it easily without removing your bumper. 

Reasons for removing valence:

• Plastidip to match other black trim or grill
• Replace valence with dealer installed front license plate
• Replace broken, scuffed, or rock chipped valence

Luckily the valence comes painted with OEM silver. 

If you happen to damage or break the molding clips, replacements are cheap and easily found. 

Part number for the molding clips is 75392-35220

Front valence part number is 5390135240, 615343612362, B01N1MPEFS, TO1095204

Tips:

• Use a screwdriver to push down on the tab and pull clip on other hand
• Much easier to remove clips when they are warm

Bolt Extractor to Remove Stripped Transmission Support Bolt on BMW E39

I broke a support brace bolt, while replacing my old transmission mounts on the E39. The bolt was broken at the head, and the threaded shank was left in the hole. I heard it snap and felt sick to my stomach. It was the last bolt to be removed to the brace and I didn't know what to do.

I looked online and apparently, breaking transmission support brace bolts is common. They are exposed to road salt, and get rusted out. Drive train components last for years before maintenance, so these bolts don't get taken out often.

The solution:

• Extract the broken bolt with a screw extractor. 
• If extraction doesn't work, drill it out. 
• Rethread with tap and die, if female threads are stripped
• Helicoil, if cutting threads doesn't work with tap and die

Broken bolt and stuck screw

I purchased the Werkzeug damaged and stripped screw extractor set and a  a Gearwrench Ratcheting Tap and Die set as well. There are 22 pieces and it comes with an magnetic extension bit holder and socket adapter.

I placed the bit holder in my drill, and picked the smallest driller. I started drilling, and had some difficulty establishing a clean hole to use the bit. I lowered the drill speed and alternated between driller sizes. I was really skeptical at first, because the bits are so small. I questioned myself, if I was doing this right at all, and if this would even work. I pressed on, out of desperation.

After 25 minutes of drilling, I finally got a good clean hole and put in the extractor. I pressed the trigger and could see the screw turning a little but it stopped. So more drilling, with a larger driller. I stepped up the extractor to #6 and the broken screw finally came out. I was elated and so happy.

Broken screw with extractor tool

Broken screw removed

I cleaned up the threads with a tap and die, removed and replaced the old transmission mounts, and put in a new support bolt into the brace.

The $20 extractor kit saved me a trip to the shop. Every do-it-yourself mechanic needs to have one of these. It is such a lifesaver, especially in tight spots where cutting the bolt is not feasible.

WoWs - Mainz Review

World of Warships - Mainz

It's a decent premium ship that is slightly better than average. Way too squishy and has no heal for Tier 8, means you die fast and are always the priority target.

Fast fire rate and better than average penetration. However, the short firing range, super high firing arcs, low Alpha damage, and ridiculously high detection range, makes the Mainz lacking in many areas. The Mainz has great torpedo angles and fire four per salvo, but the range is so short at 6 KM. There is no way you are going to brawl in the Mainz, considering how squishy it is.

It's no surprise that Wargaming is incredibly bias against German ships, probably because they aren't dirty Communists. Wargaming purposely nerfs any German ship into oblivion, as they pump out lame and boring, overpowered Russian ships. Probably, still suffering from small PP syndrome.

Take Care of Your Car During Coronavirus Quarantine

Tips on keeping your car maintained and ready during Coronavirus shutdown

Many of us are not driving or driving short distances, which can be hard on your car components. Batteries can go flat, fuel loses its combustibility, engines parts go without lubrication, and tires lose pressure.

You do not want to be in a situation where your car is not usable or unsafe, in an emergency or natural disaster. Especially if it is easily preventable. Here are some tips to keep your car running. 

Battery Tender
Keep your car or motorcycle battery charged when you are not driving. Battery tenders send a small amount of amps to keep the battery from going flat. Tenders come in many different features and prices. Desulfators to keep the battery plates from breaking down too much.

I highly suggest keeping your car on a tender if you are not driving longer than 5-7 days. If you make many short trips and don't drive on the highway, a tender is a must. Your alternator requires a higher RPMs that city driving doesn't provide to charge the battery. 

Battery Jump Starter
If your battery did go flat, buy a jump starter that doesn't require you to hook cables up to another car. Jump starters are portable and relatively cheap for peace of mind.

Tire Inflator
Keep your tires inflated, for safe driving and proper wear. Plug the inflator into your car and turn on the ignition to inflate your tires. Many come with a built in tire pressure gauge and auto stop at a set PSIs. Inflators can be used to inflate bike tires, air mattresses, and sport balls.

Avoid Flat Spots on Tires
If you don't leave the house at all and don't drive for long periods of time, flat spots can form on your tires, causing uneven rotation. I suggest moving your car at least once a week to prevent a flat spots on your tires.

Fuel Treatment or Conditioner
Have you ever kept fuel in your lawn mower after Fall and Winter, only to start it in the next Summer, and it doesn't run? Gas goes flat and loses its combustibility, after sitting for periods of time, especially with ethanol added with fuel at the pump. You do not want old, flat gas running through your engine if it has been sitting for a long time, especially with the quarantine being extended. This applies to your lawnmower, weed wackers, motorcycles, etc.

Another tip is to keep your gas tank full. Condensation builds up in the tank if the car has been sitting for a long time, reducing the effectiveness of the fuel. Keeping a full tank minimizes water from building up.

Oil Friction Addictive
Oil pools in the oil pan, leaving vital engine components exposed and unprotected, after long periods of not driving. Moisture can form, rusting components, and creating uneven wear or metal on metal contact without oil. Oil additives fill in the gap and help oil stick to engine components longer.

Oil additives have been shown to increase MPG, reduce friction and sludge, as well as engine protection.

Brake Fluid
Brake fluid is so important for safety and driving, yet it is almost always neglected. The recommended interval a brake fluid flush is 2 - 3 years, yet most people never do this. Brake fluid absorbs moisture and loses effectiveness over time. Water builds up in the lines, and bubbles form during braking, which results in longer stopping distances. This can result in completely losing your brakes if neglected for long enough.

If you can flush your own brake fluid or have experience, now is the time during the quarantine. If not, please bring your car into a shop if it's been over three years.

Windshield Wiper Blades 
Wiper blades rot over time, much faster if your car sits outside. The recommended interval is 1 year. Wiper blades are important for safety, especially in the rain, but often overlooked.

Conclusion
These tips are excellent for proper car maintenance, regardless of Coronavirus and quarantine. If you actually own and don't lease, these guidelines will help keep your car running for many years.

Anyone else find Red Dead Redemption 2 Boring?

Does anybody else find Red Dead Redemption 2 boring after fleeing from Valentine?

I was bored to tears traveling to far reaches of the map for simple fetch quests. They seemed so repetitive to the point of totally expecting what would happen next. Let's go into town for a quick shakedown or meet someone and get ambushed. Or meet someone and they will need a quick favor or a shootout and then come back.

I found myself holding lots of cash but nothing to upgrade or spend, about halfway through the quests. Legendary animals were the only thing outstanding, and I didn't see a large difference in their benefits.

I get that it takes place over a hundred years ago, but nothing needs to be painstakingly slow. Animations such as herb gathering, cooking meat on the fireplace, looting corpses, and traveling. Why do I need to go through the animations, or hold down E for a period of time, when games like Skyrim, have automatic actions. That's a major pain point for me.

RDR2 is pretty. The landscapes are really amazing to look at and the voice acting is on point. I was hooked on the first couple of missions, but it went downhill from there.

There is one scene that does stand out vividly. I was riding through the swamps to meet the animal photographer for a side quest, and came across a body that was hanging from the tree. I thought it was the photographer and unmounted. Out of nowhere three guys came out, under the mud, and attacked me. I thought they were zombies for sure, and it was a difficult fight. I did not expect that and it was quite the jump scare. Fun times. Right after that, I heard a girl crying, and the same attack happened. The swamp is a scary place.

World of Warships Cowardice

I will never understand why players are scared to take damage in a video game. Not real physical damage or harm, but pixelated damage.

World of Warships is naval warfare and combat. Pitting players against each other in teams to earn the most points. Obviously warfare and conflict is involved, so why are players so meek? Do these players not understand that losing and causing little to no damage, means less rewards? Why spend 20 minutes to not be competitive.

I see most cowardice and meekness in battleship players and some cruisers. Battleships that will leave their objective or starting area, and lemming train where the group is. Battleships that hide at spawn, and refuse to push the objective, means losing the cap. Watching these players is excruciating. I always ask myself, why play in the first place, if you are sailing around in circles at spawn and so scared to take damage.

Cruisers can be just as bad. Hiding behind islands and not supporting other players. Turning tail and running as soon as there is an enemy shooting at them. Most egregious is HE spamming high tier cruisers that will run to the edge of the map, not supporting the cap.

I see this every game and it's unbelievable. Games that could have been won, if battleship players would commit and fight.

I believe some of the cowardice is a result of several factors. The most obvious is players spending real money and buying battleships in higher tier games. They refuse to learn the game and play skillfully, and use real money to advance. Second is not playing the roles battleships are designed for. Playing brawling battleships as if they were good long range snipers with low dispersion. You see this a lot with German battleship players. Third is map awareness, or lack thereof. Just absolute retardation when it comes to knowing what is going on in the battlefield.

Cowards and meekness are not players that play for the endgame, help the team, or play smart. It's the complete fear of taking damage and running while the team gets blasted. It's gotten to a point where the game isn't even fun anymore, because a match can be thrown by one or two cowardly players.

Low MPG on E39 530i. DISA Valve?

I am getting around 15 - 16 mpg on my E39 530i with almost all city driving. Fuel economy has dropped almost 3 MPG over the last few months.

I noticed the car is running rich, with a heavy gas smell on start up. No check engine lights are on, so I am wondering if it's the DISA valve.

I swapped out the old DISA valve with an off-brand bought on Amazon. The build quality is similar to OEM, and the price almost identical to rebuild kits. I will report on the new DISA, as time goes on. Hopefully, my low MPGs are resolved.

I could tell an immediate improvement and idle. It also seemed like the 530i has more power, and isn't downshifting as much.

I figured my DISA was failing due to the rattling noise around 3500 rpm. I took removed the old DISA and there were no missing or broken parts, and the seal looked fine. I changed it out anyways.

Here are the things I have changed, that could change MPGs:

• OEM spark plugs
• Brand new valve cover gasket and seal
• Air filter
• VANOS seals
• Pre-Cat 02 sensors
• Intake and Exhaust VANOS sensors
• Pulleys, tensioners, and accessory belts
• Cleaned MAF, throttle body, and ICV
• Fuel Filter
• Oil changed every 5,000 miles
• Upper and lower intake boots
• All vacuum lines 

The other items that need to be changed:

• CCV
• Post Cat sensors
• Throttle body gasket
• Coils
• MAF
• Injectors and o-rings
• Intake manifold gaskets

I can't think of anything else. Does the fuel pump affect MPG?

Leatherique Rejuvenator and Prestine Clean = Unicorn Tears

Leatherique Rejuvenator and Prestine Clean is the greatest leather conditioner and cleaner for automobiles, period. I have received many compliments on how well the leather looks and smells on my older vehicles due to Leatherique.

Leatherique leaves leather feeling supple and buttery smooth. It brings back the original smell of the leather and deep cleans all the built up dirt and grime. I am always amazed how dry, cardboard feeling leather can turned into soft and silky suppleness after one application. Be aware creases and cracks will not be removed by Leatherique, those need to be filled and dyed.

There are downsides to Leatherique:

• Suggested application is letting seats sit in Sun for 24 hours after being applied with Rejuvenator oil. This is difficult in colder months or if you don't have time to let your car sit for a day. 
• Pricing is ridiculous at ~$1 to $2 an ounce. It's great stuff, but it goes super fast and its expensive treating a large SUV. 
• Can ruin King Ranch leather. Check for compatibility. 
• Using Prestine Clean to remove the oils is a process. Requires going over several times with Prestine and wet rags to remove all the gunk and goo. 

Luckily there are workarounds. 

• Only use Prestine Clean and skip Rejuvenator oil. If your car is brand new or leather is in excellent condition, consider skipping Rejuvenator oil and using Prestine Clean for maintenance. 
• Prestine Clean is excellent by itself and can be used for door seals and rubber. It's much cheaper than Rejuvenator oil and doesn't require Summer Sun. 

There are the Pros and Cons. To me its worth it to have the soft, great smelling, and clean leather Leatherique provides. Sure, there are plenty of YouTube videos on 50/50 leather seat shots, but I am willing to bet none of them come close to the smell and softness.

For regular maintenance cleanings and conditioning I use Lexol or Leather Masters.