How to Remove Toyota 4Runner 5th Gen Valence With Bumper

Did you ever want to remove the Toyota 4Runner 5th Gen valence that comes on TRD Off Road or Trail editions? This how to video shows you how to do it easily without removing your bumper. 

Reasons for removing valence:

• Plastidip to match other black trim or grill
• Replace valence with dealer installed front license plate
• Replace broken, scuffed, or rock chipped valence

Luckily the valence comes painted with OEM silver. 

If you happen to damage or break the molding clips, replacements are cheap and easily found. 

Part number for the molding clips is 75392-35220

Front valence part number is 5390135240, 615343612362, B01N1MPEFS, TO1095204

Tips:

• Use a screwdriver to push down on the tab and pull clip on other hand
• Much easier to remove clips when they are warm

Bolt Extractor to Remove Stripped Transmission Support Bolt on BMW E39

I broke a support brace bolt, while replacing my old transmission mounts on the E39. The bolt was broken at the head, and the threaded shank was left in the hole. I heard it snap and felt sick to my stomach. It was the last bolt to be removed to the brace and I didn't know what to do.

I looked online and apparently, breaking transmission support brace bolts is common. They are exposed to road salt, and get rusted out. Drive train components last for years before maintenance, so these bolts don't get taken out often.

The solution:

• Extract the broken bolt with a screw extractor. 
• If extraction doesn't work, drill it out. 
• Rethread with tap and die, if female threads are stripped
• Helicoil, if cutting threads doesn't work with tap and die

Broken bolt and stuck screw

I purchased the Werkzeug damaged and stripped screw extractor set and a  a Gearwrench Ratcheting Tap and Die set as well. There are 22 pieces and it comes with an magnetic extension bit holder and socket adapter.

I placed the bit holder in my drill, and picked the smallest driller. I started drilling, and had some difficulty establishing a clean hole to use the bit. I lowered the drill speed and alternated between driller sizes. I was really skeptical at first, because the bits are so small. I questioned myself, if I was doing this right at all, and if this would even work. I pressed on, out of desperation.

After 25 minutes of drilling, I finally got a good clean hole and put in the extractor. I pressed the trigger and could see the screw turning a little but it stopped. So more drilling, with a larger driller. I stepped up the extractor to #6 and the broken screw finally came out. I was elated and so happy.

Broken screw with extractor tool

Broken screw removed

I cleaned up the threads with a tap and die, removed and replaced the old transmission mounts, and put in a new support bolt into the brace.

The $20 extractor kit saved me a trip to the shop. Every do-it-yourself mechanic needs to have one of these. It is such a lifesaver, especially in tight spots where cutting the bolt is not feasible.

Take Care of Your Car During Coronavirus Quarantine

Tips on keeping your car maintained and ready during Coronavirus shutdown

Many of us are not driving or driving short distances, which can be hard on your car components. Batteries can go flat, fuel loses its combustibility, engines parts go without lubrication, and tires lose pressure.

You do not want to be in a situation where your car is not usable or unsafe, in an emergency or natural disaster. Especially if it is easily preventable. Here are some tips to keep your car running. 

Battery Tender
Keep your car or motorcycle battery charged when you are not driving. Battery tenders send a small amount of amps to keep the battery from going flat. Tenders come in many different features and prices. Desulfators to keep the battery plates from breaking down too much.

I highly suggest keeping your car on a tender if you are not driving longer than 5-7 days. If you make many short trips and don't drive on the highway, a tender is a must. Your alternator requires a higher RPMs that city driving doesn't provide to charge the battery. 

Battery Jump Starter
If your battery did go flat, buy a jump starter that doesn't require you to hook cables up to another car. Jump starters are portable and relatively cheap for peace of mind.

Tire Inflator
Keep your tires inflated, for safe driving and proper wear. Plug the inflator into your car and turn on the ignition to inflate your tires. Many come with a built in tire pressure gauge and auto stop at a set PSIs. Inflators can be used to inflate bike tires, air mattresses, and sport balls.

Avoid Flat Spots on Tires
If you don't leave the house at all and don't drive for long periods of time, flat spots can form on your tires, causing uneven rotation. I suggest moving your car at least once a week to prevent a flat spots on your tires.

Fuel Treatment or Conditioner
Have you ever kept fuel in your lawn mower after Fall and Winter, only to start it in the next Summer, and it doesn't run? Gas goes flat and loses its combustibility, after sitting for periods of time, especially with ethanol added with fuel at the pump. You do not want old, flat gas running through your engine if it has been sitting for a long time, especially with the quarantine being extended. This applies to your lawnmower, weed wackers, motorcycles, etc.

Another tip is to keep your gas tank full. Condensation builds up in the tank if the car has been sitting for a long time, reducing the effectiveness of the fuel. Keeping a full tank minimizes water from building up.

Oil Friction Addictive
Oil pools in the oil pan, leaving vital engine components exposed and unprotected, after long periods of not driving. Moisture can form, rusting components, and creating uneven wear or metal on metal contact without oil. Oil additives fill in the gap and help oil stick to engine components longer.

Oil additives have been shown to increase MPG, reduce friction and sludge, as well as engine protection.

Brake Fluid
Brake fluid is so important for safety and driving, yet it is almost always neglected. The recommended interval a brake fluid flush is 2 - 3 years, yet most people never do this. Brake fluid absorbs moisture and loses effectiveness over time. Water builds up in the lines, and bubbles form during braking, which results in longer stopping distances. This can result in completely losing your brakes if neglected for long enough.

If you can flush your own brake fluid or have experience, now is the time during the quarantine. If not, please bring your car into a shop if it's been over three years.

Windshield Wiper Blades 
Wiper blades rot over time, much faster if your car sits outside. The recommended interval is 1 year. Wiper blades are important for safety, especially in the rain, but often overlooked.

Conclusion
These tips are excellent for proper car maintenance, regardless of Coronavirus and quarantine. If you actually own and don't lease, these guidelines will help keep your car running for many years.

Low MPG on E39 530i. DISA Valve?

I am getting around 15 - 16 mpg on my E39 530i with almost all city driving. Fuel economy has dropped almost 3 MPG over the last few months.

I noticed the car is running rich, with a heavy gas smell on start up. No check engine lights are on, so I am wondering if it's the DISA valve.

I swapped out the old DISA valve with an off-brand bought on Amazon. The build quality is similar to OEM, and the price almost identical to rebuild kits. I will report on the new DISA, as time goes on. Hopefully, my low MPGs are resolved.

I could tell an immediate improvement and idle. It also seemed like the 530i has more power, and isn't downshifting as much.

I figured my DISA was failing due to the rattling noise around 3500 rpm. I took removed the old DISA and there were no missing or broken parts, and the seal looked fine. I changed it out anyways.

Here are the things I have changed, that could change MPGs:

• OEM spark plugs
• Brand new valve cover gasket and seal
• Air filter
• VANOS seals
• Pre-Cat 02 sensors
• Intake and Exhaust VANOS sensors
• Pulleys, tensioners, and accessory belts
• Cleaned MAF, throttle body, and ICV
• Fuel Filter
• Oil changed every 5,000 miles
• Upper and lower intake boots
• All vacuum lines 

The other items that need to be changed:

• CCV
• Post Cat sensors
• Throttle body gasket
• Coils
• MAF
• Injectors and o-rings
• Intake manifold gaskets

I can't think of anything else. Does the fuel pump affect MPG?

Leatherique Rejuvenator and Prestine Clean = Unicorn Tears

Leatherique Rejuvenator and Prestine Clean is the greatest leather conditioner and cleaner for automobiles, period. I have received many compliments on how well the leather looks and smells on my older vehicles due to Leatherique.

Leatherique leaves leather feeling supple and buttery smooth. It brings back the original smell of the leather and deep cleans all the built up dirt and grime. I am always amazed how dry, cardboard feeling leather can turned into soft and silky suppleness after one application. Be aware creases and cracks will not be removed by Leatherique, those need to be filled and dyed.

There are downsides to Leatherique:

• Suggested application is letting seats sit in Sun for 24 hours after being applied with Rejuvenator oil. This is difficult in colder months or if you don't have time to let your car sit for a day. 
• Pricing is ridiculous at ~$1 to $2 an ounce. It's great stuff, but it goes super fast and its expensive treating a large SUV. 
• Can ruin King Ranch leather. Check for compatibility. 
• Using Prestine Clean to remove the oils is a process. Requires going over several times with Prestine and wet rags to remove all the gunk and goo. 

Luckily there are workarounds. 

• Only use Prestine Clean and skip Rejuvenator oil. If your car is brand new or leather is in excellent condition, consider skipping Rejuvenator oil and using Prestine Clean for maintenance. 
• Prestine Clean is excellent by itself and can be used for door seals and rubber. It's much cheaper than Rejuvenator oil and doesn't require Summer Sun. 

There are the Pros and Cons. To me its worth it to have the soft, great smelling, and clean leather Leatherique provides. Sure, there are plenty of YouTube videos on 50/50 leather seat shots, but I am willing to bet none of them come close to the smell and softness.

For regular maintenance cleanings and conditioning I use Lexol or Leather Masters.

Toyota 4Runner 5th Gen Brakes Are Terrible

I know the 5th Gen 4Runner is around 4,800 lbs and a body-on-frame layout, but can we get better braking modulation and stopping power?

Linear braking response is foreign to the 4Runner. You begin to press the brake pedal to come to a stop and there is hardly any braking. You press past the midway point and it's full on nose-dive braking. It's incredibly annoying to drive and for passengers to experience.

Yes, nose-diving when coming to a stop is a trait known to the 5th Gen. I assume it's do to its weird suspension layout of double wishbone in the front and live-axle in the rear. 4Runner rear-ends sit a little higher in the back which makes nose diving worse.

There are lift-kits or leveling kits that reduce rake and prevent crazy nose-diving, but I chose a different method. I replaced the OEM rear brake pads with StopTech Street Performance pads. They bite a lot harder and keep the rear end from lifting too much. I noticed stopping distances are shorter, but the downside is they dust a lot and squeak when it's cold.

I believe OEM brake pads focus on low noise and dust which is why they are so poor. I haven't encountered brake fade or irregular wear during canyon or towing, just really bad performance. I have no other choice but to upgrade to big brake kits or replace the 4Runner. Braking was OK when the 4Runner was new, but after a couple of years of wear and several road trips the weakness is glaring.

I find myself braking extremely early and still crossing the intersection line. Stop and go, daily driving is pretty bad because I don't dare get up to speed. I find myself driving like an old grandma that does 10 mph below the speed limit due to laughable stopping distances. It's too bad and I don't think I will replace the 4Runner with another one. It can have the off-road performance and looks of a traditional SUV, but shouldn't have the atrocious brakes of one.

Toyota 4Runner - KDSS Worth it?

KDSS is an absolutely must have and I can't imagine a 4Runner TRD Off Road without it.

Many people on forums ask if KDSS is necessary and what is the difference. I test drove a couple 4Runners with/without KDSS and the contrast is staggering. I highly recommend you test drive both for an extended period of time and get on the highway. Go over a few speed bumps or choppy pavement and notice the way the 4Runner handles.

Body roll without KDSS is almost unbearable while turning in an intersection or making large degree turns. With KDSS, body roll is still there but it's under control and comfortable for daily driving. Highway driving is much more tight and its noticeable that KDSS is working on interchanges or going through cloverleaf loops. The tires don't squeal as much and it doesn't feel like tipping over at the speed limit.

Bad pavement choppiness and movement is minimized and doesn't beat you up. It's still a stiff and truck like ride with the 4Runner's body on frame and live rear axle, but it's more livable with KDSS. Unfortunately, the nosediving during breaking is still there with all suspension setups.

I test drove a 4Runner Limited with X-REAS for a short time and didn't notice any large differences with KDSS 4Runners.

There are some issues with KDSS:

• TRD Pro skid plate needs some fabrication to fit due to KDSS system
• If it breaks, it will be expensive to fix
• May not work with large lifts or suspension changes
• Some reports of clunking. I haven't had any clunking noises, but some creaking when going off-road. The creaking is probably normal while KDSS is operating. 
• Some reports of leaning to one side. 

If you are leasing a 4Runner, KDSS may not be a big deal. KDSS will improve trade-in and resale value because the option is uncommon at the dealerships in my area. 

Squeaking Garage Door Help

Does anyone know why my garage door squeaks? I replaced the rollers which were definitely worn and the bearings were making a grinding noise. I lubed all the metal hinges, springs, and new rollers but the door still squeaks.

The door is quiet when it is coming up, but squeaks loudly coming down. It's not constant but alternates between quiet and loud squeaking.

My next step is to change the hinges and see if that works.