BMW E39 5 Series Oil Fill Cap

I replaced the oil fill cap on my E39 530i because it was very difficult to twist and remove. The rubber seal had hardened into plastic and covered in sludge. The seal is bad so I did not use silicone grease on the seal to ease in removal.

The two plastic prongs over the metal tabs are missing on the original cap. I don't know if it came from the factory without the two prongs and were added to new caps or if the previous owner broke them.

I have been working on resolving the intermittent P0171 and P0174 codes as described here and have been reading various BMW forums for solutions. I came across a few posts that say a bad oil filler cap seal will cause these codes. It seems like a stretch but I needed to replace the cap anyways.

Picture of the old oil filler cap versus new.

Oil filler cap Part # 11127509328 

• Compatible with E36, E46, E60, E53, E34, E66, E65, E70, and E85 BMW models.

How to Change Rear Differential Fluid on an BMW E39 530i

Changing rear differential oil on a BMW E39 530i. This DIY applies to non-M E39s with the same  rear differential.

Tools:

• 14 mm hex bit socket or 17 mm.
• Ratchet for 14 mm or 17 mm hex socket.
• Oil Drain Pan. I use the Lisle Black Pan.
• Ramps, Jack and Jack Stands
• Oil transfer pump or suction gun.

Parts:

• Differential oil. I prefer Red Line 75w90 since Mike Miller (Roundel & Bimmer columnist) uses Red Line in his maintenance schedule. Buy two quarts.
• New fill and drain plugs. Part #33117525064
• Plug washers for fill and drain plugs. Part #07119963355

 Recommended: 

• Rags, gloves, respirator (differential fluid is foul smelling), degreaser or kitty litter to clean any spills. Wear old clothes that you can throw away, you do not want to stink up your house or washer with differential oil. 

Steps:

• Jack up E39 and place on jack stands. I drove up on RhinoRhamps and jacked up the rear. 
• Make sure the car is level by using the same jack stands or ramps at all four points. If you do not the same jack stands or ramps, a torpedo level will help in getting the car level.
• I highly recommend jack pad adapters to avoid crushing side plastic jack points.
• I use a low profile jack like Arcan's to avoid damage to the bumpers and rocker panels
• Use wheel chocks to prevent car from sliding while jacking. 

•  Locate the fill and drain plugs on the rear differential. See picture below

The plugs are wet because I sprayed PB blaster on them

• Remove the fill plug FIRST with the 14 mm hex bit and ratchet. You want to make sure the fill plug can be removed before the drain plug. 
• My plugs were badly rusted as the previous owner did not maintain the differential. I sprayed PB Blaster and let it soak for an hour to help loosen the plugs. A breaker bar may also be needed. 

• Remove the drain plug with the same 14 mm hex bit and drain fluid into a drain pan. Draining will take a while as differential fluid is thick. 

  

  Old and new plugs.

• Place new washer on drain plug and install. Torque to 52 ft-lbs. 

• Add differential oil through fill plug hole. Use a quart pump, transfer pump, or suction gun to transfer oil. I used about 1.5 quarts to fill my differential.

• Place new washer on fill plug and install. Torque to 52 ft-lbs.  

• Check for leaks and lower car by removing jacks, ramps, wheel chocks. 

Here are some of the tools I used for this job. 

That's it. Pretty simply job to do yourself and it is a lot cheaper than going to the dealership.

Notes: 

• Mike Miller recommends performing this service every 30,000 miles to maintain the differentials. 

• Some E39 drivers have said changing the differential fluid has stopped the humming or purring noise.

• Please be safe in lifting your E39, if you have never done it or don't feel comfortable, bring your car into the shop to have the service performed.

Mobil 1 Super Rebate. Up to $15 Off!

Offer is valid until May 31, 2016.

$12 rebate with five quarts of Mobil 1 synthetic oil! $15 if you include a filter.

Amazon is selling the 0W-40 oil for $22.88, that is only $10.88 for five quarts! What a steal. The 5W-30 is priced at $25.47 and the oil filters around $10.

Here is the Mobil 1 promo link with details. Other shoppers say the deal is limited to 2 five quart jugs.

Mobil 1 rebate may not work on Amazon purchases. I have ordered from Walmart online and Exxon Mobil has never turned down my rebate.

BMW Oil Filler Cap Leak - E90

The seal in the BMW oil filler cap will begin to harden and deteriorate which allows oil to leak. Judging by the amount of posts I see in BMW forums, this seems to be a very common issue.

To stop the leaking:

1. Buy and replace the oil filler cap. The new cap comes with a seal. 
• Part # 11128507153 for E9X BMWs with the round oil filler cap. Earlier E90, E60, E85, and late model E46s use this square oil filler cap.
• Part # 11127509328 for earlier model BMWs with the square oil filler cap.  
2. Carefully remove the existing seal. Clean and reinstall by reversing the ring. I would only try this if the leak is very small and I don't want to spend $15.

My leaking oil filler cap:  

I changed my oil and the oil level read max in iDrive. A couple of weeks later, the oil level dropped and it didn't seem right that I would lose oil that quickly.

I noticed dried oil around the oil filler cap and oil leaking down onto the valve cover area. I pulled my oil cap and it looked like mustard. After doing some research and asking some friends, I came to the conclusion that my oil filler seal was bad and condensation was coming in and mixing with the oil and looking like mustard on the cap. I replaced the oil filler cap and oil consumption is now normal and no more weird mustard looking oil under the cap.

Below is what my old oil cap looks like and the seal that is indented. There is caked oil all around.

How to Change Engine Oil on a BMW 3 Series E90

Tutorial for replacing engine oil & filter on BMW 3 Series E9X (06-12) with N51, N52, N54, N55 engines.

Tools:

• 17 mm socket and ratchet
• Lisle Oil Drain Pan
• Assenmacher Oil Filter Housing Wrench
• 21 mm socket and ratchet if using Assenmacher oil filter wrench
• RhinoRamps (Pair, 12,000lb. GVW Capacity)  

Parts:  

• Mann Oil Filter (Comes with drain plug and two O-ring gaskets) 
• Synthetic motor oil, options below:
• Genuine BMW 5W-30. Part number 83212365946
• Mike Miller from Roundel Magazine uses Red Line 0W40 Motor Oil - 12 Quarts 
• 2 x Castrol EDGE 0W-40 - 5 Quart European formula
• 2 x Mobil 1 Synthetic Motor Oil 0W-40, 5 Quart 
• Shell PurePlus synthetic oils

Recommended:  

• Rags, shop towels, jack and jack stands if you don't have ramps.
• I use Scott Shop Towels Pack of 2.
• Camco Wheel Chock - Pack of 2. If you jacking the front or using ramps, chock rear wheels to prevent your BMW from sliding. 
• Flat head screwdriver or General Tools Scriber
• Lumax Plastic Funnel

Steps:

• If engine is cool, start your car for 5-10 minutes to warm oil. If engine is hot, wait around 30 minutes to prevent being burned.  

• Lift BMW with a jack and jack stands or drive onto ramps. 
• Driving onto ramps is preferable if equipped with sports suspension and/or aerodynamic package due to low clearance.
• Jack one side and place jack stand or a ramp. Repeat on other side if  front bumper will be damaged driving up ramp or low profile jack cannot access the front jacking point. 
• Use a BMW Jack Pad Adapter to prevent destroying plastic side jack points.  

• Open hood and remove oil filter using Assenmacher Oil Filter Housing Wrench.
• The oil filter cap is shown below and the oil filter wrench goes on top. Place a 21 mm socket where the red circle is and loosen filter cap. 
• Place rags or shop towels around the oil filter to minimize spills when pulling out filter. 

• Locate oil drain plug access door. Door is located behind the front jacking point on RWD models and behind the transfer case beef up plate as shown below. Use a flat head screw drive and turn screw counter-clockwise to unlock shown in red circle below.

• Place an oil drain pan beneath door.

• Use a 17 mm socket and remove oil drain plug. Around 7 quarts (6.5 liters) of oil will drain out. 
• Drain plug is highlighted in red below. 
• I suggest wearing gloves to protect your hands.

• Remove and replace oil filter and two rubber O-rings while oil is draining. 

• Remove old filter from cap by pulling.
• I use a scribe to remove the old O-rings. Be careful not to damage the oil filter cap, especially the threads.
• Install new oil filter and two O-rings. Refer to the picture below from the Bentley BMW 3 Series Service Manual.
• Coat sealing O-rings with new oil
• Place large O-ring in correct location. Do not place in gap between cover and threads, place it in the correct gap below.

• Install new filter into oil filter housing and torque to 18 ft-lbs.

• Remove and replace copper washer on drain plug.

• Reinstall drain plug using 17 mm socket and torque to 18 ft-lbs. Do not over tighten. 

• Close access door and lock with screwdriver.

• Remove drain pan and lower BMW. 

• Remove oil fill cap and refill crankcase with 7 Quarts (6.5 liters) of oil.
• I pour 1 quart of oil into oil filter housing and 6 quarts into the engine. 
• Oil fill cap may be round or square depending on year and engine. N55 is pictured below.

• Reinstall oil fill cap and start engine. Check for any oil leaks and confirm the oil warning light is not on or goes out. 

• Check oil level in iDrive or the information center on the dash. Two conditions must be met to show oil level:
• Oil must reach normal operating temperatures 
• Start engine and idle or drive around for at least 6 minutes

Notes:

• Dear BMW, bring back the oil dipstick.
• Wipe away old oil in the oil filter housing after removing the filter.
• Many enthusiasts like Mobil 1, Castrol Edge European formula, or Shell PurePlus 0w-40 synthetic oils. As long as BMW's oil requirements are met you will be fine. Please refer to the owner's manual. 
• I recommend using wheel chocks for safety. 
• Picture below has useful information from Bentley's BMW 3 Series Service Manual   
• To reset CBS go to CBS explained

How to Change Engine Oil on a 2015 Subaru Forester

Replacing engine oil and filter on a 2015 Subaru Forester 2.5i and 2.0 turbo. Applies to most Subaru Foresters with similar engines.

Tools:

• 17 mm socket and ratchet.
• Extensions and a breaker bar may be useful.
• Oil Drain Pan. I use Lisle Black Pan for its large capacity. 

Parts:

• Oil filter. I use Mobil 1 Performance Oil Filter. Alternatively, buy OEM for less here: Subaru 6 Pack Oil filters for 2011 and up. Legacy, Outback, Forester. Part number 15208AA15A

• Subaru oil drain plug washer/gasket. Subaru 803916010 Oil Drain Plug Washer Part number 803916010

• Synthetic motor oil 0W-20 for 2.5i and 5W-30 for 2.0i turbo.
• 0W-20 OEM here: Genuine Subaru SOA427V1315 Motor Oil 
• Castrol EDGE 0W-20 Extended Performance Synthetic Motor Oil - 1 Quart Bottle, (Pack of 6) 
• 5W-30 OEM here: Subaru SOA868V9285 Synthetic Motor Oil - 1 Gallon 
• Castrol EDGE Extended Performance 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil - 5 Quart 

• Subaru's owner manual says use 0W-20 for the 2.5i, however I used 5W-30 and haven't had any issues. 

• Drain Plug if necessary. 
• Fumoto F-108N Engine Oil Drain Valve for more convenient draining.

Recommended:

• Ramps, Funnel, Rags, Jack and Jack Stands.

Steps:  

• Warm up car to normal operating temperatures. 

• Optional: Jack Forester and place jack stands or drive up on ramps. RhinoRamps Vehicle Ramps (Pair, 12,000lb. GVW Capacity) 

• Open hood and remove the oil filler cap (Yellow cap below).

• Remove the oil filter (Black cylinder below) with TEKTON 12-Inch Oil Filter Pliers.

• Clean the filter housing cup so there is a clean mating surface for the new filter.

• Apply clean oil to rubber gasket on new oil filter. 

• Install new filter by hand. The owner's manual says one full rotation past hand tight. 

• Locate oil drain plug underneath car. The picture below shows the general location, plug is located in the opening below.

• Place drain pan underneath and loosen drain plug with a 17 mm socket. Careful, the oil will be hot. Let the oil drain for 15-30 minutes.

• Reinstall drain plug with new crush washer. Torque drain plug to 32 ft/lbs. 

• Pour in new engine oil. It is perfectly fine if you overfill a little bit.
• 4.8 liters/5.1 US Quarts for non turbo 2.5i engine.
• 5.1 liters/5.4 US Quarts for turbo 2.0i engine.

• Install oil filler cap, check for leaks in drain plug area.

• Drive Subaru around for a few minutes. Recheck drain plug for leaks. The oil filter housing cup may leak a little which is fine. 

Notes:
I have heard great things about Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30 Full Synthetic Motor Oil - 1 Quart, (Case of 6) so I will use that for the next oil change. So far, the Castrol EDGE 5W-30 has been doing very well.

I highly suggest WIX 57055 Oil Filter for its high bypass PSI, especially for turbo Subarus. The WIX filter is competitively priced and many enthusiasts prefer it over OEM filters.

The drain plug is at an angle and not pointed straight down. I recommend placing the pan directly where the plug is pointing.

I enjoy changing oil on the Forester because I don't have to remove any plastic panels to get to the drain plug or filter. The process is quick and straightforward.

Owners manual can be found here: 2015 Subaru Forester Manual




DIY applies to SJ Fourth Generation of Subaru Forester. 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018.

DIY: Infiniti QX4 & Nissan Pathfinder Oil Change

How to change engine oil and filter on the Infiniti QX4 and Nissan Pathfinder R50

• Loosen oil filler cap in engine bay.
• Remove plastic splash guard underneath the front of the QX4. The splash guard is held by eight 10mm bolts. There may be more than eight as they tend to fall out over time.

• Locate oil filter. View picture below for reference. 

• Place a drain pan underneath the oil filter. I recommend Lisle 17942 Black Pan - 4.5 Gallon Capacity for its large capacity and spout.

• Loosen the oil filter by turning it counter-clockwise with TEKTON 5866 12-Inch Oil Filter Pliers or Lisle 53500 Satndard Swivel Grip Oil Filter Wrench. Remove oil filter and drain oil into pan.

• Install new oil filter with a new washer/gasket. I recommend Mobil 1 M1-108 Extended Performance Oil Filter or K&N PS-1008 Pro Series Oil Filter. Take the time to clean the surface where the oil filter mates with the engine so there is a good seal. 

• Move oil drain pan underneath engine oil pan. Loosen and remove oil drain plug and let the oil drain. Be careful to not damage the pan when loosening drain plug and the oil may be very hot if the car has not cooled down. The drain plug is highlighted in orange.

• Install drain plug and washer around plug. I changed my drain plug because it has never been changed in over 100,000 miles. I bought Dorman 65263 AutoGrade Oil Drain Plug and  Dorman 097-134 Copper Oil Drain Plug Gasket - Fits M12, Pack of 10. I wouldn't use the plastic gasket that comes with the Dorman drain plug, buy a copper crush washer instead. 

• Pop open the hood and remove the oil fill cap.

• Add 5.25 quarts of engine oil. 
• The owner's manual says to fill with conventional motor oil. I use Castrol 03096 GTX 5W-30 Conventional Motor Oil - 5 Quart for every change. Check the oil dipstick to see if the amount of oil is within limits.

• Replace the engine oil cap when done.

• Drive the car around and check for oil leaks around the filter or drain plug. Reinstall the splash shield when done.  

• Check dipstick to see oil is within limits.

Notes:

Changing the engine oil and filter is very easy. You can save money by changing the oil yourself and make sure everything is done properly. You never know if the quick lube places are doing things correctly.

Dispose old oil at parts store or local landfill.

The owner's manual says to fill with conventional motor oil only, synthetic motor oil may cause leaks. I filled the QX4 with conventional oil and have had zero issues over the many years and miles. I certainly have not babied or kept the Q as a garage queen, just kept up with regular maintenance and oil changes and nothing engine or mechanical has needed fixing. Do not put non recommended synthetic oil into your QX4 or Pathfinder, you will be throwing money away and potentially cause damage.