Low MPG on E39 530i. DISA Valve?

I am getting around 15 - 16 mpg on my E39 530i with almost all city driving. Fuel economy has dropped almost 3 MPG over the last few months.

I noticed the car is running rich, with a heavy gas smell on start up. No check engine lights are on, so I am wondering if it's the DISA valve.

I swapped out the old DISA valve with an off-brand bought on Amazon. The build quality is similar to OEM, and the price almost identical to rebuild kits. I will report on the new DISA, as time goes on. Hopefully, my low MPGs are resolved.

I could tell an immediate improvement and idle. It also seemed like the 530i has more power, and isn't downshifting as much.

I figured my DISA was failing due to the rattling noise around 3500 rpm. I took removed the old DISA and there were no missing or broken parts, and the seal looked fine. I changed it out anyways.

Here are the things I have changed, that could change MPGs:

• OEM spark plugs
• Brand new valve cover gasket and seal
• Air filter
• VANOS seals
• Pre-Cat 02 sensors
• Intake and Exhaust VANOS sensors
• Pulleys, tensioners, and accessory belts
• Cleaned MAF, throttle body, and ICV
• Fuel Filter
• Oil changed every 5,000 miles
• Upper and lower intake boots
• All vacuum lines 

The other items that need to be changed:

• CCV
• Post Cat sensors
• Throttle body gasket
• Coils
• MAF
• Injectors and o-rings
• Intake manifold gaskets

I can't think of anything else. Does the fuel pump affect MPG?

Leatherique Rejuvenator and Prestine Clean = Unicorn Tears

Leatherique Rejuvenator and Prestine Clean is the greatest leather conditioner and cleaner for automobiles, period. I have received many compliments on how well the leather looks and smells on my older vehicles due to Leatherique.

Leatherique leaves leather feeling supple and buttery smooth. It brings back the original smell of the leather and deep cleans all the built up dirt and grime. I am always amazed how dry, cardboard feeling leather can turned into soft and silky suppleness after one application. Be aware creases and cracks will not be removed by Leatherique, those need to be filled and dyed.

There are downsides to Leatherique:

• Suggested application is letting seats sit in Sun for 24 hours after being applied with Rejuvenator oil. This is difficult in colder months or if you don't have time to let your car sit for a day. 
• Pricing is ridiculous at ~$1 to $2 an ounce. It's great stuff, but it goes super fast and its expensive treating a large SUV. 
• Can ruin King Ranch leather. Check for compatibility. 
• Using Prestine Clean to remove the oils is a process. Requires going over several times with Prestine and wet rags to remove all the gunk and goo. 

Luckily there are workarounds. 

• Only use Prestine Clean and skip Rejuvenator oil. If your car is brand new or leather is in excellent condition, consider skipping Rejuvenator oil and using Prestine Clean for maintenance. 
• Prestine Clean is excellent by itself and can be used for door seals and rubber. It's much cheaper than Rejuvenator oil and doesn't require Summer Sun. 

There are the Pros and Cons. To me its worth it to have the soft, great smelling, and clean leather Leatherique provides. Sure, there are plenty of YouTube videos on 50/50 leather seat shots, but I am willing to bet none of them come close to the smell and softness.

For regular maintenance cleanings and conditioning I use Lexol or Leather Masters.

Toyota 4Runner 5th Gen Brakes Are Terrible

I know the 5th Gen 4Runner is around 4,800 lbs and a body-on-frame layout, but can we get better braking modulation and stopping power?

Linear braking response is foreign to the 4Runner. You begin to press the brake pedal to come to a stop and there is hardly any braking. You press past the midway point and it's full on nose-dive braking. It's incredibly annoying to drive and for passengers to experience.

Yes, nose-diving when coming to a stop is a trait known to the 5th Gen. I assume it's do to its weird suspension layout of double wishbone in the front and live-axle in the rear. 4Runner rear-ends sit a little higher in the back which makes nose diving worse.

There are lift-kits or leveling kits that reduce rake and prevent crazy nose-diving, but I chose a different method. I replaced the OEM rear brake pads with StopTech Street Performance pads. They bite a lot harder and keep the rear end from lifting too much. I noticed stopping distances are shorter, but the downside is they dust a lot and squeak when it's cold.

I believe OEM brake pads focus on low noise and dust which is why they are so poor. I haven't encountered brake fade or irregular wear during canyon or towing, just really bad performance. I have no other choice but to upgrade to big brake kits or replace the 4Runner. Braking was OK when the 4Runner was new, but after a couple of years of wear and several road trips the weakness is glaring.

I find myself braking extremely early and still crossing the intersection line. Stop and go, daily driving is pretty bad because I don't dare get up to speed. I find myself driving like an old grandma that does 10 mph below the speed limit due to laughable stopping distances. It's too bad and I don't think I will replace the 4Runner with another one. It can have the off-road performance and looks of a traditional SUV, but shouldn't have the atrocious brakes of one.

Toyota 4Runner - KDSS Worth it?

KDSS is an absolutely must have and I can't imagine a 4Runner TRD Off Road without it.

Many people on forums ask if KDSS is necessary and what is the difference. I test drove a couple 4Runners with/without KDSS and the contrast is staggering. I highly recommend you test drive both for an extended period of time and get on the highway. Go over a few speed bumps or choppy pavement and notice the way the 4Runner handles.

Body roll without KDSS is almost unbearable while turning in an intersection or making large degree turns. With KDSS, body roll is still there but it's under control and comfortable for daily driving. Highway driving is much more tight and its noticeable that KDSS is working on interchanges or going through cloverleaf loops. The tires don't squeal as much and it doesn't feel like tipping over at the speed limit.

Bad pavement choppiness and movement is minimized and doesn't beat you up. It's still a stiff and truck like ride with the 4Runner's body on frame and live rear axle, but it's more livable with KDSS. Unfortunately, the nosediving during breaking is still there with all suspension setups.

I test drove a 4Runner Limited with X-REAS for a short time and didn't notice any large differences with KDSS 4Runners.

There are some issues with KDSS:

• TRD Pro skid plate needs some fabrication to fit due to KDSS system
• If it breaks, it will be expensive to fix
• May not work with large lifts or suspension changes
• Some reports of clunking. I haven't had any clunking noises, but some creaking when going off-road. The creaking is probably normal while KDSS is operating. 
• Some reports of leaning to one side. 

If you are leasing a 4Runner, KDSS may not be a big deal. KDSS will improve trade-in and resale value because the option is uncommon at the dealerships in my area. 

Squeaking Garage Door Help

Does anyone know why my garage door squeaks? I replaced the rollers which were definitely worn and the bearings were making a grinding noise. I lubed all the metal hinges, springs, and new rollers but the door still squeaks.

The door is quiet when it is coming up, but squeaks loudly coming down. It's not constant but alternates between quiet and loud squeaking.

My next step is to change the hinges and see if that works.

BMW E90/92 Brake Job Must Read

If you change your BMW brake pads and/or rotors, you must change both wear sensors at the same time. The BMW will trigger a brake wear warning if you only replace one sensor. I learned this the hard way.

I replaced my rear rotors and brake pads with Zimmerman Z-Coat and StopTech. For the brake sensor, I used a non-OEM brand named Bowa. Huge mistake. The Bowa sensors are one-third the price of OEM sensors for a reason. They have almost no shielding for the wire that plugs into the brake pads that rubs against your suspension causing breaks and fraying. I cannot recommend buying OEM brake sensors enough because the entire wire is protected. 

I'm certain that changing the rear brake sensor only tripped the warning light, but lets say I changed both sensors at one time. The light still would have triggered because the Bowa wires were frayed after a couple of drives. 

Please save yourself the headache and change all brake pads, rotors, and sensors at once and do a reset. It will save you the time of taking everything apart again.

Apparently the BMW computer measures the wear at both sensors at the same time. If one changes but the other is the same it triggers the brake warning light. 

Toyota 4Runner Rear Differential Fluid Change Tips

I performed the 30,000 mile rear differential service on my 5th Generation 4Runner and here are some tips.

• Fill and drain plug size is 24mm. I highly suggest a shallow socket since the sway bar is in the way of the fill plug. 
• Removing the spare tire allows the best access. I recommend this because the spare will be in the way for filling.

• 36 ft/lbs torque for fill and drain plug. This is the first time I serviced the rear diff. and the plugs were extremely over torqued. I used a breaker bar to break the torque. 

• 75w-90 Red line oil is what I chose. This oil can be used in the 4Runner's transfer case and front differential. I used a little over 3 quarts so I recommend buying the gallon package. 

• Buy the gasket kit for transfer and differential service. It's easier than hunting gasket part numbers and quantity. 

• It's going to get messy and differential fluid stinks. Wear old clothes that you can throwaway after the job and have plenty of cardboard or absorbent to soak up spilled oil. 

It's a simple job, just remember to remove the fill plug first and then the drain plug. The oil from the factory turned dark grey, almost black and there was a ton of gunk on the magnetic drain plug. I am really glad I changed this out and filled it with Red Line oil. 

Annihilation Explained

The internet is abuzz with Annihilation theories, manbearpig, and interpretations. Even the media can't explain the ending but it's so simple. Spoilers ahead.

Lena (Natalie Portman) eye's shimmer at the end because she is happy her husband is a clone and doesn't fully know the past. Lena can continue her affair with Daniel without feeling guilt so that's why she hugged Oscar. Maybe both their eyes shimmer because they can have threesomes.

DNA in the shimmer is thrown into a blender. It's possible that Lena acquired that lesbian DNA from that girl that wanted to kill the team. Her eyes shimmer brightly at the possibility of having a hetero and homosexual relationship.

There is a theory that the lighthouse scene is a lie by Lena. Then explain why the guy in the hazmat suit tells Lena they investigated the sight hours before and it's all ashes.

I thought the movie was super dumb and tried to hard to become the next Inception with multiple interpretations.