Nokian Hakkapeliitta R2 Winter Tires on a BMW E39 530i

I run a set of BFGoodrich g-Force Comp-2 all season tires on my E39 530i. BFGoodrich's Youtube video states that they will do fine in the snow and many tire review websites give a 5/10 rating for winter driving. I thought they would be good enough for light snow and I was completely wrong.

The g-Force Comp-2s are terrible once snow starts sticking to the pavement and there is hardly enough traction to drive without fishtailing. It is downright scary going up and down hills or turning and braking in just a couple of inches of snow. They feel more like a Summer tire than All-season in the Winter.

I looked online and decided to get Blizzak WS80 or Michelin X-Ice Xi3 tires, depending on which store had them in stock. I was not able to find any of these tires and needed to special order them. Luckily I found a local tire dealer had 4 Nokian Hakkapeliitta R2 tires in inventory which I scooped up immediately and got them mounted.

The difference in snow and ice is incredible. I haven't had any traction problems and the 530i feel so planted with no noticeable slippage. I am no longer apprehensive about going on curved highway on-ramps that are glistening with ice because of the aggressive Hakkapeliitta tread design.

Aggressive tread pattern

I have Blizzaks on my other cars and I definitely believe the Hakkapeliittas offer better traction and handling in deep snow and ice.

Sidewall grooves to bite into snow

There is no noticeable road noise and the ride is very smooth compared to the BFG g-Force tires. Going over potholes is a lot less dramatic and everyday driving is easy because of the very low rolling resistance of the tires.

I love the look of the Hakkapeliitta R2

There are a few downsides to the Nokian tires. Braking distance is longer than with the BFGs and handling feels very mushy and floaty on dry pavement, especially when the temperatures rise above 45 degrees Fahrenheit. While the Hakkapeliitta R2's are amazing in the snow, I get a lot more slippage and wheel spin when the roads are dry and the car feels like it is driving in mud. These are small complaints and trade-offs for the best winter tires on the market.

I highly recommend these tires and I would suggest anyone to buy a set of Nokian Hakkapeliitta R2s. The price is very close to Michelin X-Ice or Blizzak tires but the deep snow performance is unrivaled. I imagine a BMW with xDrive or LSD would be nearly unstoppable with Nokian tires. 

I searched Nokian winter tires for E39s and didn't see much information on various BMW forums so I am writing this post. I hope this helps! 

How to Remove & Replace E39 5 Series Windshield Wiper Relay

DIY: BMW E39 01+ 5 Series Windshield Wiper Relay

If the windshield wipers do not work or start acting weird on your 5 Series, the simplest thing you can check or change is the Windshield Wiper Relay/Switch. The relay is located under the passenger side microfilter box and easy to get to.

This DIY applies to all E39 5 Series made after 2001. I believe the procedure is the same for earlier E39 models but the relay(s) are different.

Tools: 

• 6mm hex bit socket and ratchet
• Extension (Optional)
• Dielectric Grease (Optional)
• Flat head screwdriver 

Parts: 

• BMW Multi Purpose 7-Prong Relay
• Part # 61368384505
• It is brown colored

Steps: 

• Remove passenger side microfilter box.

Driver side box is pictured. Remove the Passenger side box.

• Use a flat head screwdriver and push down on plastic tabs to disconnect air duct. (Red)
• Unclip metal latch holding air filter cover. (Purple)
• Remove air filter tray cover. (Yellow)
• Remove cabin micro filter. 
• Remove rubber trim/weather stripping around cabin filter tray. 
• Squeeze and remove metal clip from screw holding tray to body of vehicle. (Blue)
• Lift and remove cabin air tray. 

• Remove relay box cover.

• Remove four bolts (green) using 6mm hex bit socket and ratchet.
• Remove relay box cover
• There are two small plastic tabs/clips on the back of the cover that attaches to the relay box. Gently work the cover until it comes free, if the plastic is so brittle the clips may break which is okay since the cover is held by the other four bolts. 

• Remove and replace old relay.
• Relay location is circled in red.
• Simply pull out and insert the relay. There is only one way the relay can be inserted and is dummy proof. 
• Optional: Apply dielectric grease  to the relay pins to prevent corrosion or water damage. 

• Check and see if windshield wipers are operating correctly. 
• Re-installation is the opposite of removal steps. 
• Re-attach relay box cover.
• Install four 6mm hex bolts. 
• Reinstall microfilter box with rubber trim, clips, and reattach air tube.

Notes:

The relay box also contains the fuel injector, DME, Auxiliary Fan, Air Pump, ABS, and Auxiliary Fan Stage 3 relays. This DIY has the exact same steps if you need to access these relays and fuses. 

If the windshield wipers are still not operational or acting funny, it may be the wiper switch on the driving column, wiper assembly, or wiper motor that is not working. The relay is the easiest and cheapest thing to check first.

Make sure relay box cover is snug and there are no cracks so there is no water coming into the relay box.

If you don't want to spend money on a new relay, you can try cleaning the relay contacts and see if the windshield wipers work. 

BMW Shadowline Trim Paint Code

The paint code is 668 (Jet Black) for BMW Shadowline trim pieces.

My dealership refused to replace my Shadowline trim pieces even though the paint was starting to come off and the car is still under warranty. They advised me to pick up some touch up paint and cover the entire shadowline window trim.

Part # 51910419746 for the touch up paint with clearcoat.

StopTech Street Performance Pads & Zimmerman Rotors

I swapped out the old, cracked, warped OEM rotors and Akebono Ceramic brake pads on my 2002 BMW E39 530i and installed StopTech Street Performance pads with Zimmerman coated rotors. How do I know the previous owner had Akebono pads installed? I have some extra unused pads and the part numbers match up and they look identical. There is still plenty of life left on the Akebono pads but I want something more aggressive so I went with StopTech.

Let me tell you how great the braking now feels. No more annoying shimmy or vibrations during braking, especially on off-ramps or coming down from the canyons, just nice solid brake application.

I bought my 530i used and I believe the rear rotors are original and pads are Akebono so I can't tell you how the initial bite feels compared to OEM Jurid pads. All I can say is the speed sheds quickly and the bite is pretty strong. Performance is awesome and confidence inspiring in spirited driving, I haven't had any fading or sketchy issues and I believe the DOT4 fluid helps a lot. The response is such a night and day difference that I have never felt before in this car.

Another great benefit of the Zimmerman zinc coated rotors is the way they look through the wheels, no more ugly rust that screams for attention. It is unfortunate to see a perfectly detailed car with rusted hubs.

I highly recommend this combo for daily driving, light track duty, and canyon driving. If you are looking for low dust and no noise, I would suggest going with the Akebono Ceramic brake pads with Zimmerman rotors. I did consider getting Hawk pads but that would have been overkill. Let me know what brake/rotor combos have worked well for you and leave a comment below.

1 month update: 
The StopTech pads dust a lot, if I don't wash my car every week the wheels are almost black. Performance is still amazing with whiplash inducing force if I slam on the brakes. These pads inspire a lot of confidence in driving and I can't recommend them enough.

No wonder why I was getting vibrations and squeaking noises, the rotors are all scored and have cracks.

Zimmerman rotors looking good with Bilstein Sports.

Zimmerman Rotor packaging.

Veterans Preference - Jobs

Does Veterans preference really work? Is it all a lie?

There are a lot of State and Federal jobs out there that claim Veterans preference but do they really take that into account or are qualified Veterans turned down?

BMW E39 530i Front End Shimmy

When I bought and first drove my 530i, I noticed a severe steering wheel shimmy around 45-55 mph, 75 mph, and during braking.

I ruled out warped rotors as the primary cause since the worst vibrations occurred during driving. I decided it was one or all of the front arms or unbalanced wheels causing shudder. I highly doubted the previous owner performed any preventative maintenance and I was right, all the suspension pieces were original and have never been changed out.

I switched out the old lower front control arms with Lemforder arms and a large majority of the shimmy went away. The really bad 45-55 mph wobble was gone but the higher speed vibrations remained. After switching out the thrust arms all shimmies are gone and the 530i drives great.

H&R Sport Springs and Bilstein Sport Shocks on my E39 530i

I recently upgraded my OEM shocks and springs on my E39 530i to H&R Sport Springs (29742-1) and Bilstein Sport Shocks. The front control arms, front and rear sway links were also replaced with Lemforder parts.

My first impressions is how bumpy, firm and extremely stiff the 530i now handles. I knew the ride was going to be more harsh, but I did not expect it to be so bouncy and bone shattering. Going over large bumps and dips is like going on a roller coaster, you feel front end dive and then recoil hard. Watching the rear view mirror shimmy and shake while driving is something new.

Not all is unpleasant with the H&R and Bilstein upgrade. The car feels planted and confidence inspiring on the highways and smooth roads. Turning into corners and canyon driving is a blast and this is where the sporty setup shines. I can take corners with much more stability and poise than ever before.

So is it worth going from OEM to H&R and Bilstein sports? I say yes. The setup is much cheaper than replacing with OEM parts and looks even more sporty. All the annoyances go away once you turn into a corner. Another benefit is how flat and stable the 530i feels under braking and accelerating, no more dipping and diving at stop lights.

If comfort is you are looking for, then go for OEM.

Update 1: I love the way sporty and conservative look with the springs. Time for some bigger wheels to fill the wheel well.

After driving a couple of hundred miles, I would say the ride is less jarring than run flats. I still find it funny during braking and feeling the car rock back and forth because the ride is so stiff.

Update 2: 10 months later and the ride is still very firm but a dream on the highway. Going into bends at 80 mph or attacking interchanges and hairpins is where the Bilsteins and H&R combo really shines. It feels so effortless and confidence inspiring on the highway.

Driving on city streets is still jarring but it has gotten better. I wouldn't say my ride is ruined like I read on the E39 forums but its still very bumpy.

DIY: Brake Fluid Flush on BMW E39 5 Series

How to change brake fluid on a BMW E39 5-Series using the Motive European Power Brake Bleeder w/ Adapter

BMW recommends flushing brake fluid every two years for everyday street driving.

Tools: 

• Flathead screwdriver
• 9 mm wrench 
•  Box end wrench may be helpful
• Motive European Power Brake Bleeder w/ Adapter
• Genesis Cable Bleeder Bottle
• Turkey baster or syringe to suck out old brake fluid
• 17 mm socket and ratchet to remove wheels
• Torque wrench for wheel lugs
• Jack and jack stands

Parts:

• Brake fluid:
• 2 x ATE Original SL.6 DOT 4 . Lower viscosity, better for street use. 
• 2 x ATE Original TYP 200 DOT 4

Recommended:

• Shop rags or towels to place around brake reservoir and underneath brake caliper for spills.

Steps:

• Break torque on wheel lugs using 17 mm socket and ratchet
• Safely jack up E39 and place on jack stands.
• I use Jack pad adapters to prevent crushing the plastic jack points. 
• Remove lug nuts and wheels. 
• Pop open hood and locate driver side cabin air filter tray.
• Use a flat head screw driver and push down on the plastic tabs to disconnect air duct. (Red)
• Unclip metal latch holding air filter cover. (Purple)
• Remove air filter tray cover. (Yellow)
• Remove cabin micro filter. 
• Remove rubber trim around cabin filter tray. 
• Disconnect electrical plug from hood sensor. (Green)
• Squeeze and remove metal clip from screw holding tray to body of vehicle. (Blue)
• Lift and remove cabin air tray.
• Now you have access to the brake fluid reservoir.

• Open reservoir cap (red circle) and suck out old brake fluid with a turkey baster. 
• Place rags or towels around reservoir to soak up spills. Brake fluid will damage and remove paint. 

• Fill brake reservoir to max with new DOT 4 brake fluid. 
• Dump remaining brake fluid into Motive brake bleeder. 
• Install adapter to brake fluid reservoir.
• Pump brake bleeder to 15 psi.

• Go to right rear brake caliper and locate the brake bleeder nipple. 
• Now is a good time to inspect brake lines for any wear, rot, or damage. 

• Remove cover from bleed screw and attach hose from bleeder bottle. 
• If using 9 mm box end wrench, place it on bleed screw before attaching hose from bleeder bottle.
• I sprayed penetrating oil on the screws for ease of loosening. 
• Loosen bleed screw and wait until all the air bubbles and dirty brake fluid has left the hose.
• Look for new, clear brake fluid before tightening bleed screw. 

• Remove hose and reinstall cover. 
• Pump Motive power bleeder to 15 psi.
• Repeat the process for the left rear caliper, right front caliper and finally the left front caliper.
• Make sure power bleeder is at 15 psi before each bleed. 
• When completed, remove pressure from the power bleeder side and fill reservoir to max. 
• Reinstall reservoir cap.
• Reinstall cabin micro filter tray and rubber trim piece. 
• Reinstall and torque wheels.
• Jack and remove jack stands to lower E39. 
• Test the brakes by moving a few feet before going on a drive. 

Notes:
Buy two 1-Liter bottles of brake fluid. One should be enough, but you want to have an extra liter in case of spills or shortage of fluid.

Gently loosen and tighten the brake bleed screws, it is easy to strip and damage them.

It is normal to have air bubbles in the hose from the power bleeder to the reservoir during fluid flush process.

Cover all areas where brake fluid may spill. Brake fluid will strip paint.

Minimize the amount of time new brake fluid will be exposed to air. Brake fluid is hygroscopic so remove the reservoir cap only when necessary. Properly dispose of any opened brake fluid bottles if not using in the near future.

This tutorial may apply to other BMW models.

I don't think the previous owner ever changed the brake fluid or within the past five years. The old brake fluid was extremely nasty and almost black.