E39 Ignition Switch Removal Tips

BMW E39 5 Series Ignition Switch Removal Tips

There are multitudes of tutorials on how to remove and replace ignition switch on E39s. Here are useful tips I learned that were not pointed out or emphasized enough in those DIYs.

• Push in the clips on top clam shell cover nearest steering wheel while pulling down on lower clam shell to gain access to switch. Be very careful as the plastic clips are fragile. This took me longer than expected until I found where to push in. 

• Remove lower clam shell all the way by using needle nose pliers to push in two side and three bottom tabs. 
• This will greatly help in using screwdriver to back out screws holding in switch

• Remove wood trim pieces on left and right side of steering wheel using plastic pry tools. Then use Phillips screwdriver to remove screws and lower dash. 
• Absolutely necessary for access to top T27 torx bolt. 

• Use a 1/4 inch ratchet and the smallest T27 Torx socket for top torx bolt. 
• Space is extremely tight. I used needle nose pliers to loosen and tighten torx bolt because my ratchet was pressed against the dash while removing the torx bolt. 
• Other tutorials say the bolt is T30 however mine was T27. 

• A E39/E38 Steering column vibration mount (PN 1093829 or 32311093829) was in lower clam shell upon removal. I don't know how to put it back and left it out with no noticeable difference in driving. 

• You must use flat head screwdriver to position white plastic part inside new switch to where old switch was positioned. Otherwise your new switch will not work. It looks like a T carved into white plastic. 

My bad ignition switch symptoms:

I changed my engine mounts and the airbag light came on. It was intermittent and would flash on and off with strange clunking noises coming from the steering wheel. I lost all steering wheel controls and my radio would stay off after I shut off the 530i. The lower portion of the radio LCD would not illuminate and it would take me several minutes of pushing the volume knob to turn off the radio. 

I figured the switch was faulty by using the passenger and driver side vanity mirror test. All radio electronics would shut off by sliding the vanity mirror cover and the airbag light went off. 

Luckily it was a bad switch and not a clock spring or slip ring. This job is simple but can be annoying due to the tight fit of everything, especially the top T27 bolt. I estimate this will take 1-2 hours to replace. 

I noticed my LCD displays are much brighter with the new switch. Looking back that was probably the only warning that my switch was going out.

E39 Engine/Motor Mounts Helpful Info

There are many tutorials on how to replace engine mounts for E39s but here are some useful tips that they are missing or did not emphasize enough. This job is simple and can be done relatively quickly with my tips below.

Tips: 

• My driver side mount required a 21 mm socket for the top cover
• Universal sockets or adapter is required due to the angle of the nuts
• Raise the car onto four jack stands or ramps. I made the mistake of only lifting the front and it was impossible to remove the mounts
• Other tutorials say jack engine one or two inches. That is not enough to remove passenger side engine mount. You must remove engine fan using 32 mm wrench and holding tool to lift engine. Otherwise the fan will bump into fan shroud and crack
• I highly recommend using two people when lowering engine. One person lowers car jack while other person ensures engine mount studs go through mounting holes
• Penetrating oil on the nuts, especially if mounts have never been replaced before
• Motor mounts are a good preventative maintenance item on E39s and E46s because if they fail the engine fan could hit the shroud and explode, destroying your coolant lines. 
• Use a deep 16 mm socket for the nuts. 

Go with Lemforder engine mounts, they are OEM for BMW. Other brand engine mounts are much cheaper but will not last long. 

There is a big difference in ride quality and idle smoothness after changing my engine mounts. No more harsh idle or front swaying in corners.

I don't know if it's a coincidence or changing my mounts caused my airbag light to go on and steering wheel radio controls to stop working. When I turn off the car the radio keeps playing.