E39 Ignition Switch Removal Tips

BMW E39 5 Series Ignition Switch Removal Tips

There are multitudes of tutorials on how to remove and replace ignition switch on E39s. Here are useful tips I learned that were not pointed out or emphasized enough in those DIYs.

• Push in the clips on top clam shell cover nearest steering wheel while pulling down on lower clam shell to gain access to switch. Be very careful as the plastic clips are fragile. This took me longer than expected until I found where to push in. 

• Remove lower clam shell all the way by using needle nose pliers to push in two side and three bottom tabs. 
• This will greatly help in using screwdriver to back out screws holding in switch

• Remove wood trim pieces on left and right side of steering wheel using plastic pry tools. Then use Phillips screwdriver to remove screws and lower dash. 
• Absolutely necessary for access to top T27 torx bolt. 

• Use a 1/4 inch ratchet and the smallest T27 Torx socket for top torx bolt. 
• Space is extremely tight. I used needle nose pliers to loosen and tighten torx bolt because my ratchet was pressed against the dash while removing the torx bolt. 
• Other tutorials say the bolt is T30 however mine was T27. 

• A E39/E38 Steering column vibration mount (PN 1093829 or 32311093829) was in lower clam shell upon removal. I don't know how to put it back and left it out with no noticeable difference in driving. 

• You must use flat head screwdriver to position white plastic part inside new switch to where old switch was positioned. Otherwise your new switch will not work. It looks like a T carved into white plastic. 

My bad ignition switch symptoms:

I changed my engine mounts and the airbag light came on. It was intermittent and would flash on and off with strange clunking noises coming from the steering wheel. I lost all steering wheel controls and my radio would stay off after I shut off the 530i. The lower portion of the radio LCD would not illuminate and it would take me several minutes of pushing the volume knob to turn off the radio. 

I figured the switch was faulty by using the passenger and driver side vanity mirror test. All radio electronics would shut off by sliding the vanity mirror cover and the airbag light went off. 

Luckily it was a bad switch and not a clock spring or slip ring. This job is simple but can be annoying due to the tight fit of everything, especially the top T27 bolt. I estimate this will take 1-2 hours to replace. 

I noticed my LCD displays are much brighter with the new switch. Looking back that was probably the only warning that my switch was going out.